Growing
chillies, simple or complicated?
I think
growing chillies is not at all complicated, if you keep to some simple rules.
Sure as a
real expert, I want you to believe it is all so difficult, that you really
don’t want to grow them.
Buy your
chillies with me, and you will have the best.
This is how
it used to be, really, for instance:
The chilli
was introduced in Korea by the Japanese, in the 17th century, where the
Japanese held monopoly on “Japanese mustard” as Portuguese missionaries called
it.
The
Japanese told not only the Korean but the Chinese, Vietnamese and more, that
chillies won’t grow in other climates, keeping the Japanese pepper for
themselves. In the mean time they earned loads of money.
Well, even
the Finnish have chillies growing now, so why won’t you?
The only
tricky part about growing chillies is germination.
Now
everybody has got wild stories, or less wild stories about germination and how
it should be done.
Some do the
first stage, growing its first root, in wet paper tissues or wet cotton wool or
ziplock bags, and then transfer them seeds to soil. I have even heard people
using germination powders and fluids that will cost you the world. The only
thing I do is soak them in water fro 24 hours, and if they are looking a bit
tatty or dirty, I soak them in weak chamomile tea.
But really
all you need are good fresh seeds, and some patience.
If you want
to grow chillies, you need to be early with getting seeds and doing the
seeding.
As I said
soaking in water I sometimes do, but I do tend to forget at times, and did see
no change.
I normally
start in end of December and start January, putting the seeds in little
takeaway boxes with some soil in it. Some little holes in the covers to have
them have some ventilation, but not too much so they won’t dry out too fast. At
this point they really don’t need any light, so I have them on top of my
computer, which is always running. This will keep them at a snug temperature of
27 Celsius.
Some people
germinate the seeds in root riot cubes, party cups with seeding soil or in
propagators. Depending on the space you have, and the amount of plants you want
to have, you can take whatever fits you the best.
I will get
into this later, at the time you need to start seeding.
Then the
waiting game starts, waiting for them to pop up, and show their seed lobes.
If they are
all up, or the majority is up, I make the soil a bit wetter, and transplant
them to home made root riot cubes. Some say that is too early, but it seems to
work just fine with me, so I’ll keep to doing that.
Here is the potpress, it is about 40 odd years old, and works like a charm. Bought it for 20 Euro at Ebay.
At this stage they don’t
really need to be that warm, but they do need sun; otherwise they will get long and thin, so it is
better to keep them cooler.
3 weeks later, they will look like this
Coming
season I will explain all at the time when it is needed. Just trying to get you
up to speed with what I have done and where I am now.
Potting
soil, now that is a different matter. At least that is what a load of people
say, and I have a few small tips for you on this point. I have used potting
soil from 2 Euro per 40 Litre, up to stuff from 10 Euro per 40 Litre, seeing no
difference whatsoever in short or long term. There are a few things to make it
better though. You can use dried cow dun pellets, or a little horse manure in
the bottom of the pots. Potting soil however seems to have enough feed for the
chilli plants, though one can never be sure, so I give them some horse manure.
If you take a look at Going green 1 and Going green 2 you see a lot of tips.
One of them is very handy, and that is to use worm compost due to various
reasons. The most important one being that plants growing in a soil mix with
worm compost seems to have little or no problems with aphids and other creepy crawly
things. I heard in Sussex all growers use worm compost to keep aphids away. And
it works, like a charm. If I forget to add it to the soil, that are the plants
that do get aphids. Not much harm as I make my own spray to kill the life ones,
and to repel the flying ones that want to lay eggs. Another trick is to put
some banana peel in the top soil, to keep aphids away. A spoon full of shredded
peel will do per plant, and the worms love to eat it, if they are still in the
worm compost. If you add another spoon full of shredded banana peel every other
month they will be ok all year. The peel contains Potassium, Calcium, Iron, Magnesium,
Manganese, Phosphorus and Zinc, which are a great feed for chilli plants, so
the plant has all it needs. An other tip; add coffee grounds to the soil, they
are a source for Nitrogen and great worm feed.
So, now we
are at growing and getting the best out of your plants
Here for comparison, left with press pots home made from potting soil and 15% worm compost, at the right I used only pure potting soil. Big difference isn't it?.
We had the
soil, the aphids and the germination and getting them out of the germination
trays, or takeaway boxes and so on.
So it is
time to pot them on in?
In the
Netherlands the call the stuff potting soil, in some countries they call it
compost, and I mix it up with 10-15% worm compost. After the seeds have
“hatched” you can put them in pots, press pots or root riot cubes.
The can
stay there from 6-8 weeks, in the press pots and root riot cubes, until you see
roots are forming out of them. That is when you need to pot them on. If you use
pots, as soon as you see good roots coming out of the pots, they need bigger
ones. I mostly do it step by step, from cubes to 9 Cm pots, from 9 cm to 2 litre or right on to 5,5-7,5 litre. Depending on the sort they need 5,5 litre
to 7,5 litre for 1 year, look at description of the variety you have on the net
to how big they get.
Here my plants are now about a foot high, some are even bigger!
Good grief,
I am at 1100 some words !
Next time I will tell you about the birds and the bees, the flowers and the
fruits !
Yours truly
Bart J.
Meijer
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